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"In some ways, I think travel is about learning how to see, learning how to pay attention. It's an alarm clock in some ways, and it's a jumpstart to putting our senses on the setting where they're universally receptive. I think theoretically we could do that at our homes, and yet somehow, surrounded by familiarity and the routine we know too well, our eyes tend to close and we don't notice the things that are so wondrous for a visitor. But as soon as we physically start moving we awaken to the beauties around us." --Pico Iyer

Australian Traveller - April 2008

Tales of Ireland

April 17th 2008 21:37
Farm after boring farm left me thinking – Ireland sure ain’t all it’s cracked up to be!

Newport, Ireland
Finally reaching County Mayo, which is located in the West of Southern Ireland, my view instantly changed… quite literally. We were to visit Newport which is a quiet little village watched over by a large church on a hilltop. The road coming in winds with the curves of a gently bubbling stream, opening up as it flows through a series of arches that form the bridge connecting one part of the village to the other. A few twists and turns and we were driving next to an embankment which lined the road, hiding the view on the other side, a row of small houses lining the other.
farmhouse door



Driving through a narrow stone archway was like stepping through a portal into another world. The tarred road melted into sloshy, rain-soaked tracks which led to a tight gathering of rustic farm houses. Outside ours a stone barn stood, weathered by the breath of time, the tractor standing proud beside the walls, splatters of mud sprayed along its side from a day spent hard at work in the fields. The farmer stood in the doorway, his faithful dogs at his side, jeans tucked into his wellies and large coat billowing around him like a storm cloud. With a firm shake of the hand, a nod of the head and a whistle to the dogs, he was back in his tractor and puttering his way out to feed the cows.
farm dogs



The small front room was just big enough for us to squeeze into, the lounge suite looking as old as the house itself - anything different and it would have looked out of place in the humble surroundings. The sweet smell of grass filled the air, mixed with the faint aroma from last nights fire, whose ashes still lay in the open fireplace. Overhead a single, naked bulb dangled from the ceiling, casting a yellow light across the room. The heat from the range* warmed the house, the blast of chilly air that rushed in when we arrived swallowed up. Above it, clothes hung drying in the warm air and a large kettle warmed on one of the hot plates. Soon steaming mugs of tea were passed around, the water collected from the stream that gurgled down from a nearby mountain and sweeter than any I have ever tasted. Stories of yesteryear began to flow and dusty albums housing ancient photos were opened and spilled the tales of generations long ago buried in the land they toiled so hard over.

Dinner was a simple dish of whole boiled potatoes with creamy Irish butter melting into their flesh, juicy lamb bred and culled on the property and thick chunks of onion and mushroom on the side. More steaming tea was poured and after dinner slices of Barmbrack, a sweet bread with currants, suddenly appeared on the table. The house creaked and sighed as the water heated in the pipes and at one point the rosy cheeked farmers wife said, ‘Aye ya be listenin’ to tha thunda in me house now!’. It had been a long day after an early morning flight and the long drive across country from Belfast, so with tummies full and content it was time to slip into the land of nod.
sunset ireland

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Narita and the Airport

April 7th 2008 11:31
The bus which was to take me to the nearby Naritasan Temple in the morning, was due to arrive back 15 minutes later than the departing bus to the airport, and so another short trip passed me be. You can imagine my disgust when I arrived at the airport to see that our flight was delayed by 1 ½ hours!

Japan Airport is as interesting as they come. Very quickly I have learnt that not too many people speak English and I don’t speak much Japanese, so the best way to get along is learn to say hello, nod and smile and hope for the best!

Going through the Departure Gate I came across a man standing next to what looked like a trash can yelling through a megaphone something very loud and which I couldn’t understand. I almost felt like I had to apologize for something!

After handing over my expired Zimbabwean Passport which contained my current Australian Visa, then my Japanese issued Travel Document which contained my transit visa and finally my Zimbabwean Emergency Travel Document with my British Visa and New Zealand stamps I went through what has probably been the fastest check-in on record and didn’t even have my usual visit to the Immigration Department. The probably reckon if you get passed the guy screaming through the megaphone you deserve some slack.

That, or she took one look at all those documents with their foreign stamps and thought, ‘I don’t get paid enough for this!’.

When I saw the sign that said the flight had been cancelled I was not happy. However, I had failed to see the reason for it – ‘ DUE TO CHANGE OF THE AIRCRAFT’. I tried not to let my mind wander back to my recent trip to New Zealand where my flight was delayed for 6 hours after an aborted take off. After sitting on the plane for half an hour before leaving the terminal we finally made it onto the runway, only to sit there for another 20 minutes, the cabin starting to smell a little like burnt rubber and filled by the sound of an engine trying to start. The Captain announced we would be returning to the Terminal for the Engineers to check out what was happening – erm ya think? Anyways, this time I was hoping that ‘change’ meant it was returning from a new paint job or something – being surrounded by Chanel, Burberry, Cartier, Tiffany and Co. and Salvatorrreh Ferrererorogio (well that’s what it sounded like in my head anyway!), I also felt like I needed a change. Even the kids looked like they had stepped out of the glossy pages of a fashion magazine. At least I had Y1500 flight voucher to spend. Woo hoo I could pretend I was rich for a few hours (a coffee was Y360 you do the math!).

A row of Duty Free shops lined the walkway to the fancier, more exclusive ones at the far side of the Departure Lounge. The thing about these shops was that they all sold the same thing… for the same price. As a result I felt like I had stepped into an African vegetable market! Staff stood outside each entrance yelling (minus the megaphone) the bargains out loud, handing out free samples of perfume (only sold in this shop… as advertised in every shop), green tea, discount vouchers and… whisky! Hell yeah, let’s stop here for a second and grab a bargain with that Y5 discount voucher, equivalent to not even a cent. Here comes the last of the big spenders!

I thought twice about going into the fancier clothes stores after a rather obvious look from the store assistant could only be translated as ‘Don’t you even think about it.’ I expect they don’t do business with a whisky ogling, cheap perfume smelling tourist in jeans and a black T brandishing an armload of Y5 discount vouchers! I didn’t want to buy anything anyway! You can always tell how expensive a store is the number of items in the store and the number of staff on duty. See a place with a 5 metre long glass cabinet displaying 2 rings and a necklace with 7 pristine staff waiting to serve you tea and tell you how wonderful the diamonds sparkle with your eyes, keep walking.

See a store with shelves piled to the ceiling and aisles so narrow you need to turn sideways to walk down them, with one staff member behind the counter chewing gum whilst chatting at the top of her voice on the phone whilst serving – go for gold!

All this excitement was building up a thirst so I wandered into a café for a coffee, courtesy of the airline voucher, or 3 coffees as it turned out which was a really great idea before a 13 hour flight. Whilst I watched a kid read his book backwards and listened to the guy next to me noisily slurp up his noodles, my eyes fell on the milk and sugar container which was crammed with all sorts of colourful sachets and miniature tubs. When my coffee arrived I would have the choice of ‘PET SUGAR’ (seriously that’s what the little pack said), ‘GUM SYRUP’ or ‘CAFÉ MILD #5’.

On the way to the toilet I noticed the displays of the food on offer in each of the café windows. Lines of dishes with servings of plastic food and a long row of glasses with plastic drinks were arranged neatly on the glass shelves.

Everything in the toilets is censor operated, so as soon as you put your hand under the soap spout a stream of foam squirts out, do it to the tap and water shoots out, the two located ridiculously close to each other. Being a germophobe doesn’t help as I wash well above my wrists and with all that hand waving and scrubbing I felt like a conductor orchestrating a symphony of squirting foam and water.

It was around the time that the lady sitting across from me in the boarding lounge spat in the flower pot that I decided I was all Japanesed up and it was time to head on my merry way.

Who said flights were boring?
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Arriving in Japan

April 7th 2008 11:29
At the Arrivals Hall I rushed down the corridor to try and get to the hotel and squeeze in a quick trip into the city. Careening around the corner I ran head first into a large crowd of people standing at various sets of closed doors. I imagine a man at the Departure Hall talking into his walkie-talkie saying something along the lines of “Woshi naaah hi arrrigato sushi haaa”, roughly translated as “OK Flight JL874 just took off – send in another 400!” I guess they have to control the population somehow hey?

Actually it was something far less interesting – the doors opened onto the arriving shuttle which would take us to the Immigration and Exit Hall,s where we were herded like cattle through the stalls, signs announcing ‘FROM HERE ONLY 45 MINUTES” in a sickeningly cheerful font. As we reached the sign ‘FROM HERE ONLY 15 MINUTES” a customs official came bouncing around the corner like Tigger on Speed. ‘Come, come! This one open. No passengers, no passengers!’ and pointed around the corner. With the prospect of spending a few minutes less as part of the cattle group I joined a stream of others to go around the corner… down a passage, turn left, turn right, slapping and sweating and huffing and puffing with my luggage and coat, only to arrive back in pretty much the same position I had been in the previous line!

Now that I am here I am kicking myself for not having booked a longer stay. Although I was planning a quick trip into Tokyo I didn’t think I would be quite so tired and with a round trip taking about 3 hours or so and the possibility of missing the last train back out and being stranded overnight I decided to chicken out.

The hotel is rather luxurious with chandeliers dangling from the ceiling and everything gleaming and sparkly clean. In front of the restaurant is a glassed off room looking over the painstakingly raked . The tiny dunes of the curved gravel resemble an untouched beach of soft peaks and fine powdered sand. Everywhere cherry trees are in bloom, lining the streets with their delicate branches.

Having decided to skip the ‘Fluffy Stewed Cow Muscle’ and not keen on chicken with the possibility of Bird Flu still hanging around I dodged and dived around the menu looking for something to eat. Finally having decided the waiter was immediately at my side, flipping his digital pad open and tapping in a few codes to take my order. Getting caught overnight in foreign cities, contracting strange diseases and generally being in on edge are not quite on my agenda this time around – and it feels strangely odd not pushing the boundaries I must admit!
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